Coast to Coast Day 3 - Stanhope to Tynemouth, July 10th, 2006
Distance: 42.15 miles
Max Speed: 28 mph
Avg Speed: 11 mph
Photographs from day 3
After a solid nights sleep, we began with a couple of wicked-strength cups of coffee as we mulled over what was to be the last day of our pedalling adventure together. First order of business was that particularly nasty climb out of Stanhope that we had been pondering over a pint the previous night. Not a long climb by any stretch of the imagination, probably just over a mile but the profile on paper looked vicious. We set forth with a deliberately positive attitude that it probably wasn't as bad as it looked. Pulling up to our starting point for the day it was immediately obvious that it was in fact just as ridiculous as we had feared. In our favour though it was early morning and we were brimming with energy so we looked at each other, shrugged, grinned and set forth to do battle.. In second gear.
I learned a great deal from my brother on these steep climbs. Usually I just pile into a hill, all guns blazing up on the bar ends in quite a high gear hoping to get to the top before I run completely out of energy. While this works well on the weekly commute, for multiple mile climbs the hill will laugh at you and spit you off crying. The only way is to be more patient, spin a much lower gear, keep regulating your breathing and you'll get there. With just a couple of quick 20 second stops for bursting lungs, we arrived at the top quite quickly with an immense feeling of satisfaction that all of the serious climbing on the entire C2C route was now behind us.
Ahead of us? Just about all downhill to the journey's end in Tynemouth. Miles and miles of downhill! Smiles all round as we tucked into a quick bite to eat, before waving to Mum and setting off along Waskerley Way.
O Waskerley Way! What a joy! Though the heavy skies promised to unload on us at any second, I think this section of the route was the highlight of the trip. Consistent downhill, a surface neither too rough or too boringly smooth and (of all things!) a tail wind led to easy cycling, high speed, and fantastic scenery. We were completely alone.
Bliss.
For the most part, Waskerley Way follows the western part of the former Stanhope and Tyne Railway. It passes through a range of habitats from mixed deciduous woodland and conifer plantations to open heather moorland. The guide book is not wrong in describing it as a supremely relaxing 10 mile cruise to Lydgett's Junction, dropping around 200 metres in the process and taking you over the superb Hownsgill viaduct.
The council are not kidding - as we cycled across the viaduct, way above the tree line, the surrounding countryside completely opened up and you cannot help but feel the enormity of what you are standing upon. A truly fascinating experience and we could have stayed there quite a while if we had not got places to go! More merry downhill pedalling ensued, with some notable sections on resurfaced off-road trails which were very pleasant. Most notable of them all was the Derwent Walk Path which we followed for much of the time from Consett and was a surprisingly beautiful wooded area so close to the town.
Soon after we emerged from the lovely woodland into more urbanised areas with more bridges than you can shake a stick at. The end was in sight! With heads held high, we crossed the Tyne using the bridge at Derwenthaugh, picked up the pace on the pedals, began to spin away and -- were unceremoniously halted as Jon chose a most inconvenient time to get a puncture. This was made somewhat more amusing as Dad, not being so familiar with the Presta tire valve, once the tire was mended, simply ripped the bicycle pump off the tire without first unlocking it from the valve. It was one of those moments when you can see it about to happen, both Jon and I screaming 'noooooo' in ultra slow motion but to no avail! Dad was nonplussed, but amazingly the valve stayed in one piece. I think I remember Dad mentioning something about that might explain why all of the valves on his other tires were broken or bent in some way.. Sorry!
Newcastle upon Tyne hove into view. Once famous for heavy industry and coal and previously one of the largest ship building and repair centers in the world. The cranes and derricks around the Riverside are still an impressive spectacle today. Even more impressive are the multitude of bridges, most notably the Gateshead Millenium Bridge. This is the world's only tilting bridge and allows shipping to pass underneath and apparently highlighted by a spectactular high-tech light show at night. The route along the Tyne's north bank, Hadrian's Way, is a delight to cycle with smooth surfaces and freedom from traffic. Ample photo opportunities for everyone.
After a few miles squirrelling around some back roads, housing estates and roundabouts, we crested a rise and there it was! Tynemouth! Truly a pleasure after so many miles to cruise through town among all the fish markets, stores, and seaside town activities.
Pulling up to the finish marker of the C2C was in some ways a very welcome sight after so many miles but also bittersweet as it marked the end of our time together. The elation of finishing in a pretty respectable 2.5 days soon gave rise to much contemplation about the last few days and how truly free it had felt. No computers, no rush hour, and no mind-numbing meetings. Just you, your family, a bike, your thoughts and a destination.
While I did miss Kim a great deal, I truly felt like I lived out there in the open air on the hills, sweating buckets on the climbs, spinning crazily down steep descents, swerving violently to avoid suicidal sheep. It was with these thoughts in mind we guzzled what had to be the best Fish and Chips with Mushy Peas in the world sitting on the seafront. Laughing as we talked to cyclists about to begin the C2C in the other direction who enquired whether we were cycling too. "Just finished it" came our happy reply as we tucked into another fistful of chips smugly. This was swiftly followed by a few pints of Tetleys in a nearby pub as we relived the ride together and the stories we had to tell.
While the last few journal entries have been somewhat long, I wanted to put electronic pen to paper in as much detail as I could remember so that I would look back on it in years to come as a great family event. I truly appreciate being able to spend this time with Mum, Dad and Jon as we don't see each other nearly as much as we should what with Jon and I both bouncing all over the world.
I returned from the trip with a new found vigor for really doing something more with my life. Since then Kim and I have both been planning countless new trips and mischief. It's so easy to fall into the daily work routine and grind out the hours without really thinking about what's out there, what your goals are, and whether you are really doing anything about them.
A good friend of mine once used this quote as inspiration for chasing his dreams. It hits the nail on the head.
It has been two months since our days in the wilds, yet the memories are strong.
I hope they always are. Cheers.
Day 3 Suunto log.
Route for Day 3, courtesy of "The Ultimate C2C Guide"
Stanhope to Consett
Consett to Wickham
Wickham to Newcastle
Newcastle to Tynemouth
Overall route map courtesy of Sea to Sea cycle route published by Sustrans
Max Speed: 28 mph
Avg Speed: 11 mph
Photographs from day 3
After a solid nights sleep, we began with a couple of wicked-strength cups of coffee as we mulled over what was to be the last day of our pedalling adventure together. First order of business was that particularly nasty climb out of Stanhope that we had been pondering over a pint the previous night. Not a long climb by any stretch of the imagination, probably just over a mile but the profile on paper looked vicious. We set forth with a deliberately positive attitude that it probably wasn't as bad as it looked. Pulling up to our starting point for the day it was immediately obvious that it was in fact just as ridiculous as we had feared. In our favour though it was early morning and we were brimming with energy so we looked at each other, shrugged, grinned and set forth to do battle.. In second gear.
I learned a great deal from my brother on these steep climbs. Usually I just pile into a hill, all guns blazing up on the bar ends in quite a high gear hoping to get to the top before I run completely out of energy. While this works well on the weekly commute, for multiple mile climbs the hill will laugh at you and spit you off crying. The only way is to be more patient, spin a much lower gear, keep regulating your breathing and you'll get there. With just a couple of quick 20 second stops for bursting lungs, we arrived at the top quite quickly with an immense feeling of satisfaction that all of the serious climbing on the entire C2C route was now behind us.
Ahead of us? Just about all downhill to the journey's end in Tynemouth. Miles and miles of downhill! Smiles all round as we tucked into a quick bite to eat, before waving to Mum and setting off along Waskerley Way.O Waskerley Way! What a joy! Though the heavy skies promised to unload on us at any second, I think this section of the route was the highlight of the trip. Consistent downhill, a surface neither too rough or too boringly smooth and (of all things!) a tail wind led to easy cycling, high speed, and fantastic scenery. We were completely alone.
Bliss.
For the most part, Waskerley Way follows the western part of the former Stanhope and Tyne Railway. It passes through a range of habitats from mixed deciduous woodland and conifer plantations to open heather moorland. The guide book is not wrong in describing it as a supremely relaxing 10 mile cruise to Lydgett's Junction, dropping around 200 metres in the process and taking you over the superb Hownsgill viaduct.
Courtesy of Derwentside District Council site:
The Viaduct, which has stood for over a 130 years, is a magnificent example of Victorian railway engineering on the course of the old Stanhope & Tyne Railway between Consett and Rowley. Hownsgill Viaduct has no river or stream beneath, just a dry valley, or wind gap, which was an extreme handicap to the railway.
Before the viaduct was built the rail journey had been interrupted by this ravine and freight had to be taken across it on wagons which were lowered and raised by means of a stationary steam haulage engine. In 1856 the railway company, Stockton & Darlington, sought tenders for the construction of a viaduct. The chosen engineer, Thomas Bouch, was just about to embark on an exciting career of bridge-building and to be knighted for his work by Queen Victoria but was to end his life in disgrace because of the collapse of his greatest achievement - The Tay Bridge.
Hownsgill was constructed between 1857 and 1858 in brick, using almost three million white firebricks. It is 700 feet long, 175 feet high and has 12 arches, each with a 50ft span. It cost £12,500 to build and weighs approximately 12,000 tonnes. For those with a head for heights, a walk across the viaduct is truly rewarding with spectacular views of surrounding countryside.
The council are not kidding - as we cycled across the viaduct, way above the tree line, the surrounding countryside completely opened up and you cannot help but feel the enormity of what you are standing upon. A truly fascinating experience and we could have stayed there quite a while if we had not got places to go! More merry downhill pedalling ensued, with some notable sections on resurfaced off-road trails which were very pleasant. Most notable of them all was the Derwent Walk Path which we followed for much of the time from Consett and was a surprisingly beautiful wooded area so close to the town. 
Soon after we emerged from the lovely woodland into more urbanised areas with more bridges than you can shake a stick at. The end was in sight! With heads held high, we crossed the Tyne using the bridge at Derwenthaugh, picked up the pace on the pedals, began to spin away and -- were unceremoniously halted as Jon chose a most inconvenient time to get a puncture. This was made somewhat more amusing as Dad, not being so familiar with the Presta tire valve, once the tire was mended, simply ripped the bicycle pump off the tire without first unlocking it from the valve. It was one of those moments when you can see it about to happen, both Jon and I screaming 'noooooo' in ultra slow motion but to no avail! Dad was nonplussed, but amazingly the valve stayed in one piece. I think I remember Dad mentioning something about that might explain why all of the valves on his other tires were broken or bent in some way.. Sorry!
Newcastle upon Tyne hove into view. Once famous for heavy industry and coal and previously one of the largest ship building and repair centers in the world. The cranes and derricks around the Riverside are still an impressive spectacle today. Even more impressive are the multitude of bridges, most notably the Gateshead Millenium Bridge. This is the world's only tilting bridge and allows shipping to pass underneath and apparently highlighted by a spectactular high-tech light show at night. The route along the Tyne's north bank, Hadrian's Way, is a delight to cycle with smooth surfaces and freedom from traffic. Ample photo opportunities for everyone.After a few miles squirrelling around some back roads, housing estates and roundabouts, we crested a rise and there it was! Tynemouth! Truly a pleasure after so many miles to cruise through town among all the fish markets, stores, and seaside town activities.
Pulling up to the finish marker of the C2C was in some ways a very welcome sight after so many miles but also bittersweet as it marked the end of our time together. The elation of finishing in a pretty respectable 2.5 days soon gave rise to much contemplation about the last few days and how truly free it had felt. No computers, no rush hour, and no mind-numbing meetings. Just you, your family, a bike, your thoughts and a destination.
While I did miss Kim a great deal, I truly felt like I lived out there in the open air on the hills, sweating buckets on the climbs, spinning crazily down steep descents, swerving violently to avoid suicidal sheep. It was with these thoughts in mind we guzzled what had to be the best Fish and Chips with Mushy Peas in the world sitting on the seafront. Laughing as we talked to cyclists about to begin the C2C in the other direction who enquired whether we were cycling too. "Just finished it" came our happy reply as we tucked into another fistful of chips smugly. This was swiftly followed by a few pints of Tetleys in a nearby pub as we relived the ride together and the stories we had to tell.
While the last few journal entries have been somewhat long, I wanted to put electronic pen to paper in as much detail as I could remember so that I would look back on it in years to come as a great family event. I truly appreciate being able to spend this time with Mum, Dad and Jon as we don't see each other nearly as much as we should what with Jon and I both bouncing all over the world.
I returned from the trip with a new found vigor for really doing something more with my life. Since then Kim and I have both been planning countless new trips and mischief. It's so easy to fall into the daily work routine and grind out the hours without really thinking about what's out there, what your goals are, and whether you are really doing anything about them.
A good friend of mine once used this quote as inspiration for chasing his dreams. It hits the nail on the head.
"When we die, we may be set to write an essay on our life story. Fifty years behind a desk will be summed up in a few paragraphs while a few days in the wilds will expand into the story." - Stephen Graham
It has been two months since our days in the wilds, yet the memories are strong.
I hope they always are. Cheers.
Day 3 Suunto log.
Route for Day 3, courtesy of "The Ultimate C2C Guide"
Stanhope to Consett
Consett to Wickham
Wickham to Newcastle
Newcastle to Tynemouth
Overall route map courtesy of Sea to Sea cycle route published by Sustrans
http://www.sprayfly.com/category/mountain-biking/c2c/
Thanks, Jono
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